cauliflower ‘couscous’
This month’s recipe is an adaptation of one from New Zealander Megan May’s creative cookbook, The Unbakery, celebrating raw, plant-based food. I received the book as a gift from a New Zealand viol player, Polly, when we gave a concert together near the ancient Roman aqueduct, the Pont du Gard, in Southern France. I love that this recipe shines the spotlight on the humble cauliflower.
Cauliflowers were probably first cultivated in the Levant, and arrived in Europe just before the end of the fifteenth century. They had made their way to England by 1597, when John Gerarde discussed ‘Colieflorie’ in his Herball. Like other members of the brassica family such as cabbage, broccoli and Brussels sprouts, the cauliflower was bred from the wild mustard plant, Brassica oleracea. Wild mustard’s terminal bud was developed into the cabbage, its stem and flowers became broccoli, the lateral buds became Brussels sprouts and its clusters of unopened flowers became cauliflowers. Breeders today are still developing new types of brassicas – such as the delicious kalettes (a cross between kale and Brussels sprouts).
SERVES 4–6
300g cauliflower
½ teaspoon sea salt
15g finely chopped mint
15g finely chopped parsley
8g finely chopped coriander
2 tablespoons lemon juice (half a lemon)
2 tablespoons preserved lemon, finely chopped
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
30g chopped pistachios
30g dried cranberries, dried barbaries or sultanas
Pulse-chop the cauliflower with the salt in a food processor until it resembles couscous.
Put the cauliflower into a bowl and add the herbs, lemon and olive oil. Toss well.
Add the pistachios and dried fruit, toss again, and serve.